15 East Seventh Street
(Third Avenue) New York, N.Y. 10003 |
Like any good old ale house, McSorley's and its patrons do not have a record of when the place actually opened; the sign says 1854, however, and I'm sticking with that. When rioting Irish-Americans pretty much burnt many parts of lower Manhattan to the ground during the draft riots of July 1863, they were careful to keep their watering hole and veritable community center largely intact. The place has stood and gathered dust ever since, one of the few physical things in New York that has passively resisted change by simply not changing. Its a lovely experience, and for just five dollars, you can get a light and a dark (or two of each), the only beer they serve. Perhaps it was the awareness of being in what is pretty much the closest thing to the heart of Irish (North) American history, but that beer tasted pretty damn good the first and every time since that I have had it.
The walls are covered in various pictures and paintings, many of them with as much dust on them as the rest of the place.
And of course, the floor is covered in sawdust.
Those pictures though, some of them give hints that there have been visitors here beyond what the management claims. One particular New Yorker who first showed me the place insists that the Kennedy brothers came here for a victory drink after Jack won the presidency. I have a pretty good feeling that Mr. Roosevelt the first came here now and then during his policeman days; there's no proof, but it just seems to fit his character. While his sort was much more from the other side of town, and though he personally loathed populist politics, well, he was also no stuck-up rich snob. In many ways, McSorley's was the beating heart of old New York. Take what I say with a grain of salt, of course, because I've only been a frequent visitor and temporary resident in the city. The best way to experience the place, as usual, is to come see it. They have food. I've never had it. It's probably good stuff, though I usually wander around the neighborhood later and find rare odd-ball things like Khyber Pass, an Afghan restaurant just around the corner. There is nothing like having Afghan cuisine served to you by a Russian waitress...
Oh, and did I mention that there are restrooms on the premises? The gents have urinals that you pretty much can't miss, no matter how many lights and darks you have had. The first time I saw them I nearly burst out laughing. Like the urinals, the other best free part about McSorley's is that it is really off the beaten path while still largely accessible. Most tourists don't head anywhere near here, which is not to say there is nothing to see here. The cheapest attraction in New York City is just walking around and enjoying the experience, and there is no shortage of great shops, restaurants, art, music, and pieces of history to be found in East Village. It's also probably one of the best places, aside from Harlem, to see how average Manhattan people exist (at least until rezoning and gentrification really get underway).
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