Always to the frontier
Showing posts with label New York City. Show all posts
Showing posts with label New York City. Show all posts

Friday, January 30, 2015

Cheap Beer In New York City?!

In honor of the fact that another Friday is upon us and that there no doubt plenty of people taking a detour on the way home to get absolutely sloshed, I proudly present McSorley's, where you can still get two beers for 5 American dollars (cash only).

15 East Seventh Street
(Third Avenue)
New York, N.Y. 10003

Like any good old ale house, McSorley's and its patrons do not have a record of when the place actually opened; the sign says 1854, however, and I'm sticking with that.  When rioting Irish-Americans pretty much burnt many parts of lower Manhattan to the ground during the draft riots of July 1863, they were careful to keep their watering hole and veritable community center largely intact.  The place has stood and gathered dust ever since, one of the few physical things in New York that has passively resisted change by simply not changing.  Its a lovely experience, and for just five dollars, you can get a light and a dark (or two of each), the only beer they serve.  Perhaps it was the awareness of being in what is pretty much the closest thing to the heart of Irish (North) American history, but that beer tasted pretty damn good the first and every time since that I have had it.

The walls are covered in various pictures and paintings, many of them with as much dust on them as the rest of the place.






And of course, the floor is covered in sawdust.




Those pictures though, some of them give hints that there have been visitors here beyond what the management claims.  One particular New Yorker who first showed me the place insists that the Kennedy brothers came here for a victory drink after Jack won the presidency.  I have a pretty good feeling that Mr. Roosevelt the first came here now and then during his policeman days; there's no proof, but it just seems to fit his character.  While his sort was much more from the other side of town, and though he personally loathed populist politics, well, he was also no stuck-up rich snob.  In many ways, McSorley's was the beating heart of old New York.  Take what I say with a grain of salt, of course, because I've only been a frequent visitor and temporary resident in the city.  The best way to experience the place, as usual, is to come see it.   They have food.  I've never had it.  It's probably good stuff, though I usually wander around the neighborhood later and find rare odd-ball things like Khyber Pass, an Afghan restaurant just around the corner.  There is nothing like having Afghan cuisine served to you by a Russian waitress...

Oh, and did I mention that there are restrooms on the premises?  The gents have urinals that you pretty much can't miss, no matter how many lights and darks you have had.  The first time I saw them I nearly burst out laughing.  Like the urinals, the other best free part about McSorley's is that it is really off the beaten path while still largely accessible.  Most tourists don't head anywhere near here, which is not to say there is nothing to see here.  The cheapest attraction in New York City is just walking around and enjoying the experience, and there is no shortage of great shops, restaurants, art, music, and pieces of history to be found in East Village.  It's also probably one of the best places, aside from Harlem, to see how average Manhattan people exist (at least until rezoning and gentrification really get underway).   


Thursday, January 1, 2015

The Mystery Holiday, Where People Got Drunk Last Night (Times Square), And 2014

New Year's eve and day have always been something of a mystery to me.  Many people, even those who don't overly imbibe the night before, expect to get the day off, and are often quite surprised that even essential services and stores remain functional and open for business.  Maybe the day is seen as a time of "me" in contrast to the function of Christmas, which in North America seemingly serves a two-fold function to the secular public as a time of family obligations and a time to spend deeply into debt in order to satisfy supposed needs of gift recipients.  The whole exhausting affair might in fact give purpose to the night of selfish excess which provides for cheap entertainment; large bar tabs can otherwise be forgotten in the suds.  In the rest of the Gregorian calendar observing world, people do in fact celebrate, but in North America, more so in the United States, Mexico City, and urban Canada, people get downright crazy.  No other place in the world gets more insane than Times Square.

Clutter, shadows, and isolation among the bustling heart of a city...  Insanity as urban art.

I could write a rather lengthy post about the history, glitz, glamor, shame, etc. that is involved in this meeting of roads in Midtown Manhattan, and I actually have written about the statue of a Roman Catholic priest which is the unnoticed centerpiece of the northern part of the square.  Really, though, that is easy information to find, and this is one of those instances where the description simply pales in comparison to the experience of exposing the senses to it in person.  No photos of it really do the place justice; it pretty much glows.

Its amazing what standing just a few feet closer into the scene with the same camera on the same settings can do to this classic picture scene.  The signs all seemed to have gone off at the same time, the construction is hidden by passing cars, and even the metal plates on the road seem to light up.  This angle is, of course, looking south towards One Times Square.

It glows almost as good if not better than Vegas, perhaps even more so.  Vegas exists to purposefully take your money without any regret, surface of otherwise.  Tourist New York, on the other hand, exists to take you and your wallet on a ride that you both seem to, above all else, enjoy, and not merely for the purpose of spending.  That said, even while you can be entertained here just by people watching and taking in the sights, all those signs, especially the big ones front and center on One Times Square pretty much exist to get you to spend something.  They want you to eat, drink, and take in a show.  They even want you to know that the police and around to make sure your experience is as unmolested as possible.


Which leads us into the second bit of our post, and away from the relatively quiet February scenes photographed above.  It seems that last night, much like last year in general, people were gathering to protest and break the silence about what they view to be ignorance.  Apparently more protests against racial discrimination and police brutality were set to take place last night in Times Square, but there were so many people there to simply party, revel, and lose themselves in the moment that nothing significant ever got underway.  The protestors could not even make it to the party, and Times Square did its usual job of distracting everyone from the reality of what was happening in the rest of the country.  2014 has largely been like that, though, perhaps more than any other year before it. 

The 24 news cycle and the ebb and flow of internet trends have largely ensured that people really don't think about things like government spending and corruption, international incidents, disease outbreaks, and even, well, joy over things that have gone right.  Times Square is a reminder that our society often gets bombarded by all sorts of information, is driven towards pleasure, and has a very short term memory.  Times Square is a lovely place in some ways, but one that is extremely artificial.  It is very purpose driven towards an intoxicating excitement that in the end is all too ephemeral.  In many ways and for many people, such was the experience of 2014 in North America. 

Thursday, February 27, 2014

Toronto And The Power Of Memory

To a Detroiter, Toronto is a thing of distant majesty, be it seen in either the eyes of envy or romance.  In comparison to a decaying industrial behemoth which once had the possibility of rivaling Chicago or Los Angeles in terms of culture and influence, Toronto looks to be the promise of a Great Lakes capital fulfilled.  Here we have a stable city of incredible economic strength and fortune with all the diversity one would expect of a city the size and importance of New York.  Here we have gleaming skyscrapers, a remarkable landscape of ravines and naturalistic city parks, all within easy travel of anything from oceanic expanses of water to cliffs, mountains, and north woods.  Here we have a city, which while being well-developed, is still so full of promise and young enough to proudly declare that she is far from being finished and ready for so much more.  I always thought so.  Part of me still does.

This, of course, is the viewpoint of an expatriate looking back ever so passionately over that long, so-called undefended border and dreaming of what life without exile in this United States would have been like had I stayed.  Like so many Torontonians, I can only envision my gleaming city as the accepting, open, safe alternative to a post-911 New York.  I would love to envision her as being as equal among names like the city at the mouth of the Hudson, London, Paris, or Hong Kong.  While instead I realistically consider her to be of the same caliber as a San Francisco, Milan, or Sydney, part of me still imagines Toronto to one day, along with Canada, claim her position in the supreme pantheon of global divinities.  She is, after all, extremely well connected and perhaps one of the most tolerant places on the entire planet.  Therein, of course, lies the problem.  Toronto is too Canadian.

Before I have my countrymen come down on me like a bad case of NAFTA, I would very much like to qualify that statement.  I realize how self-hating I sound in writing this, akin to the James Joyce who loved Ireland but for the Irish and their culture (something I could never seem to forgive him for), but the truth of the matter is that so much of the Canadian cultural and political identity is based off of a defensive self-image: namely, we are not American.  Even my presentation here of Toronto proposed that part of her greatness lies in being an alternative to an American city!  Canadian culture, at least what I have known of it from Ontario, the most defensive province of all, has little maple leaves everywhere poised to force Canadians to remember that while we share material culture with the Yankee beast to the south, those little leaves acting as an apostrophe in a fast food sign tell us that we could not be more different.  To a great extent, we are, but again we have the problem in having to point that out to ourselves or the the American tourists who pass through southern Ontario and see strip mall after strip mall standing in silent reminder of just how much control branding has over the world these days... but of course we think instead just about how surely they point and laugh and call us the fifty first state.  Some do, to be fair.

But we also don't look at government, guns, or history the same way.  The border remains largely because a difference of mentality marks far more of a difference between, say, Michigan, New York, or Ohio and Ontario than there is noticeable between Ohio and Kentucky.  Sure, as neighbors we live on the same street, have half the time fought on the same side in battles, to say nothing of fighting in the same battles, and we both eat far too many Big Macs.  The truth remains, however, that we are still neighbors and not part of the same family in the same house.  This truth, time and again, keeps getting neglected by those in the Canada house, at least in the Ontario department.  Those people instead prefer to see their house simply as being either better or worse than the house next door!  Any concept of what is Canadian thus evaporates beneath the heat of the comparison lamp.  Meanwhile, that city of Toronto keeps getting larger, keeps adding in more people from every part of the known world, and turns into some settling basin where the diverse elements never really add something to the mix but tend to keep to themselves.  Unlike New York, where the magic of the city has always been the transformation of cultures into something American and then ultimately into something New York in it's own right, Toronto does not have a Canadian or even Torontonian glue sticking it all into some amazing sculpture.  There is neither assimilation nor destruction here, but, in true Toronto fashion, people lowering their heads to the ground or a phone and ignoring one another.  Here tolerance is taken to the ugly extreme of opted compartmentalization. 

That, of course, is a cultural sin.  No, it is not the apparent evil that is the mutually agreed upon racial and socioeconomic segregation popular in Detroit and Buffalo, the two closest border cities, but it is perhaps just as dangerous considering as how this sort of self-absorption is preventing Toronto from becoming truly world-class at the highest levels.  This sort of selfishness is deadly insomuch as it is passive-aggressive to the point of not even being acknowledged, even by people who look out for that sort of thing, like your author here.  You see, until I was able to see the people avoiding eye contact and concerned about the possibility of random conversation, I did not believe that my Toronto had become so cold and indifferent.  I figured that such an image of the city was the result of a worldly friend who wanted more than the mundane every day of next door.  Torontonians, after all, have a legacy of self-loathing to uphold, at least in the realm of civic pride.  Yet the Toronto that I remembered was through the eyes of a child, who did indeed remember more hopeful people back in the early to mid nineties, who saw those gleaming skyscrapers, and more importantly, who saw that incredible parliamentary mace, gloriously surrendered back to us by the neighbors who finally had to admit that we made it as a country.  When I looked at that mace, when I looked at those old buildings next to those new buildings, I knew what Canada was.  I knew what Toronto was.  I knew that I was the citizen of a country that proclaimed liberty with a dressing of tolerance, a desire to move cautiously forward with a healthy respect for the past, and a passion for freedom both from without and within.

I also remember a small cluster of the most beautiful tree in existence planted out front.  There, in plain sight, I remember three Eastern White Pines not much taller than our teacher, planted surrounding a smaller Colorado Blue Spruce, which then I figured to be nice but unimpressive.  The trees, like the mace, were still part of a Toronto that I simply had refuse to acknowledge had changed, or rather refused to change.


A quarter of a century later, these native pines have grown from the fresh landscaping Christmas tree size into their more natural, flowing, majestic sway.  The American-born Colorado Blue Spruce has grown with them, and in a rather amusing and illuminating way has not managed to overtake its companions, yet probably still draws more attention than the common place pines.  The truth here, though, is that the image has changed somewhat.  Like the city around them, they have remained the same but taken on a much grander form... but those who pass them every day probably don't even look up, as they surely don't look around at what an amazing thing has grown around them in the past thirty years, let alone the past ten.  Instead, Torontonians are busy with the illusion that they are at the top of bottom of the world, depending on perspective; the city has indeed become something global, and yet...  They cannot see the miracle of transformation and continued growth with the fascinating world of formal identity specifics that exist both in the now and then.  Toronto is a city that denies itself a taste of what it can be, what it has been, and even what it has become, amazing in being a living example of philosophical potential being, that "which is possibly everything but actually nothing". 

I do promise to show, as I do in this blog in general, what Toronto is.  Better yet, I invite you to see it for yourself and draw your own conclusions.

Thursday, July 4, 2013

Happy Fourth

To anyone reading this, remind everyone you meet of the significance of this day and how it means more than just a chance to sleep in and gorge on grilled meats later.   The sad truth is that more people in France than here know what July 4th means.  Heck, they even sent us a statue because of it!


Yes, that is Lady Liberty herself seen through the trees of Battery Park off of State Street, all the way down at the bottom tip of Manhattan.  This is a nice view of a French statue seen through Willow Oaks (Quercus Phellos) and London Planetrees (Plantanus x Acerifolia), a lovely reminder of our European, Colonial, and Native roots.  The park has a great website where one can see a plant database, including a bloom time monitor, for everything that grows in this nice green space.  It can be found here.  The Battery also features an urban farm!

Enjoy the day, and remember to get historical as much as relaxed.

Wednesday, April 10, 2013

A Priest Among The Temple Of The Secular

Continuing with some off the beaten path New York coverage, we come to Time's Square.  A little bit on the beaten path, you might say?  Maybe if one focuses entirely on the neon signs, huge advertisements, people lining up in restaurants and shops to spend, spend, spend...  But among the noise and glitter, right in front of everything and everyone stands a statue of a Roman Catholic priest, Father Francis P. Duffy.


Like your author, he was born in Canada, moved to the United States to live there, and responded to a divine call to become a priest in the Roman Church.

He felt very passionately about his adopted homeland and served as a military chaplain for her.  He proved himself every bit as much the leader on the battlefield that he was in a parish or seminary and was regarded highly in this respect by his Irish-American regiment.  Back home in New York he was among the most influential speakers in the public sphere to convince the country that Irish-Americans and other Catholic Americans could be and indeed were patriots and in love with their country, a rather uphill battle for anyone to fight until well into the 20th century.

Times Square, like so much of New York, has been paved over and illuminated to attract tourists, commerce, and perhaps help the city get rid of the memory of its difficult rise to global prominence.  The prosperity and immensity of today's New York, however, has been built on a foundation of racial and cultural conflict, environmental destruction, and the illumination of history.  The arduous and often bloody struggle to help define American liberty and purpose saw New York burned and turned into a pit of people against people in segregated bastions of neighborhoods.  Men and women like Father Duffy were there as American consciousness awakened here in the heart of her historical imagination and memory.

He is honored by a statue that no one looks at (not a single person took even a passing glance in the ten minutes that I stood near it just to see if anyone cared) in the northern part of a square that bears his name.  In some ways we are like a Rome of Late Antiquity, too concerned about the politics of the moment to pay any attention to the statues in our forums that record our past, even while we continue to build more monuments to the glory of our people.

If ever you find yourself among some great wonder of the human world, do not be afraid to question where the foundation lies for what you stand upon and have come to appreciate!